Take care of your RV generator's transfer switch.

courtesy norwall.com

Got a "built in" RV generator? Don't have to "plug and unplug" shore power cords when switching from shore power to the genset? Then you have an ATS (automatic transfer switch). They're convenient, indeed, as the rest of us without them have to go outside, typically open a door, and plug the shore power cord into a special receptacle fed by the genset.

However, there are a couple of caveats you need to be aware of: An ATS is not a "perfect" device, and problems can occur. Here's a good rule when firing up the generator when using an ATS. In fact, this is a good rule when firing up any RV generator, ATS or not: Reduce power consumption before firing up the generator. That means, make sure the air conditioner, the microwave oven, the portable electric space heater--any of those "big draw" devices are turned off.

A big surge in electrical current can actually damage an ATS, and in some cases, the genset itself. There have been cases, too, when the ATS somehow wasn't fast enough to isolate the generator from the shore power system--with very nasty and sometimes expensive results. Take the extra moment to reduce your power consumption before you hit the start switch.

Finally, add your transfer switch to your list of "annual inspection" items. If your owner's manual doesn't provide points to look for, then here's a generic list. First, check that all electrical connections are tight. Road bounce can loosen connectors. Look for any evidence of overheating – discolored contacts or connectors spell heat issues, again, often associated with loose connections. Cleaning the system with pressurized air to blow out dust is a good idea. And inspect the contacts in the switch – if they show evidence of overheating or wear, it may be best to replace them.

Slow cookers and RV boondocking -- are they compatible?

Boondockers, who by nature want to get away from it all, still need to eat. Combining getting away from it all, with being busy – say sightseeing, fishing, hiking – make for some interesting approaches to cooking. Is there a way to combine the convenience of a "slow cooker" or "crock pot" with the boondocking lifestyle?

One RVer brought up the thought of running a slow cooker with solar panels. He hadn't done it, but did wonder if it were possible. Well, a little math on this one yields up a result:

Assuming the typical "family size" crock pot that draws 275 watts when operating. OK, maybe you have 300 watts of solar panels up on the roof, but that doesn't all translate out to a Martha Stewart, "Good Thing." Remember, you'll need to run that solar power through an inverter which will chomp up around 10 to 20 percent of your power due to inefficiency. If the batteries aren't completely full when you begin your slow cooking, they too, will demand a share of that power. And of course, your solar panels would need full sunlight exposure (and no clouds) while your meal cooks.

OK, so maybe a slow cooker won't cut it. Or will it? Enter the smaller slow cooker. We tracked down a 1.5 quart slow cooker (Rival brand) that scales in at 100 watts of consumption. That would leave room for charging your batteries and feed the hungry inefficiency of an inverter. Others have said they've found a mini cooker from the same outfit that only uses 47 watts. But lookout on the latter: There are certain points where you won't actually be cooking food; those teeny tiny crock pots are basically only good for warming cheese for the nachos.

But don't give up yet, "There are," says Mr. Spock, "always alternatives." Enter thermal cookware. The basic premise is starting your cooking process on the stove top in a specially designed stainless pot, then after a start, you encase the pot in a vacuum container where the heat loss is so limited, the initial heat completes the job over a period of hours. Said to be great for soups and stews, they may be a boon for the slow cooked food loving RVer.

Here's an example: Put your ingredients together for a hearty soup in the stainless cooking pot. Bring the pot to a boil, lower the heat, toss on the cover, and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes. Turn off the heat, throw the cooking pot into the outer container, close it up, and a few hours later, dinner is served. The system is said to keep stuff 'serving hot' for a minimum of 10 hours. We haven't tried it, and the system isn't inexpensive: Amazon sells a number of these from varying sources, starting at about $150.00.  Search for, "Thermal Cookware" in "All Departments."

Want cheaper, but a bit more labor intensive? Dutch oven in a fire pit!

Need more water in your RV? Think horse tank!

Next to sufficient electricity, for a boondocker perhaps the second-most precious commodity is water. Cool, clear, water. For some, there's never enough. Perhaps they haven't been able to make the jump to "Navy showers," and insist on those long, drawn out times in the tub. How can you get enough water on your excursion if your fresh water tank is too small? Think about horsing around.

Half-moon lay down tank

Nah, we're not suggesting skinny dipping in the nearby creek. But horse loving folks who travel with their four-legged pals know that sometimes there's not enough water in their horse trailer for themselves and their equine friends. Enter auxiliary water tanks for horse folks.

These tanks are designed for the horse crowd: Some "double" as saddle racks, others are designed to ride in the back of a pickup truck, squeezed in between the sidewall of the truck and the trailer gooseneck. Since few of us have goosenecks (and more likely have fifth wheel hitches) they don't always cross over as well as some. Still, if you pull a travel trailer, the "48 gallon half-moon lay down" tank might work out for you.

18 gallon "slant" tank

The ones of real interest are designed for inside a horse trailer, tucked away in a corner or in a dead space area. Ranging from sizes that contain as little as 18 gallons or as much as 39, they stand upright (requiring some work at tying them in place) and can give you that extra edge when needed for more water.

How could you plumb such a critter? All of them come with hose spigots, allowing you to "gravity flow" your water where needed. Add an auxiliary 12-volt RV water pump, you can easily transfer your extra water into the existing house system through the normal fill port. Get even more fancy and you could run a permanent water line from the horse tank to the water line heading into your RV's water pump inlet line. 

Before you start your installation though, keep in mind the weight of the tanks plus that of the extra water. Don't overload your RV's weight carrying capacity, and don't place a tank where the extra weight may adversely affect load balance and road handling.

Here's a link to horseloversoutlet, a retailer of horse water tanks systems.